Neuchâtel: The Swiss Enigma You Didn't Know You Needed
You know that feeling when you’re sure you’ve lost your mind and possibly your passport, only to find it a year later behind the couch? That’s Neuchâtel for you: a charming enigma wrapped in centuries-old history, breathtaking landscapes, and a little confusion about how long you planned to stay. Let’s dive into the world of Neuchâtel, where every corner has a story, and every story has a twist.
Where in the World is Neuchâtel?
Nestled comfortably in the French-speaking part of Switzerland, Neuchâtel sits pretty on the northwest shore of Lake Neuchâtel. Imagine a scenic postcard with a lake that’s more of a mirror and the Jura mountains standing guard in the background. Yeah, that’s Neuchâtel. It’s like the French Riviera got lost and ended up in Switzerland, but no one’s complaining.
A Stroll Through History
Neuchâtel isn’t just a pretty face. This place has stories that date back to when knights were real and not just Halloween costumes. The city’s name literally means “new castle,” a nod to the castle built in the early 11th century by Rudolf III of Burgundy. And just like any good vintage wine, this city has aged well.
As you wander through the old town, you’ll stumble upon picturesque villages and vineyards that look like they’ve been plucked straight out of a fairytale. Speaking of wine, did you know Neuchâtel is home to some of the oldest vineyards in Switzerland? It’s like walking through a living, breathing history book—if history books had a penchant for wine.
The Old Town: A Medieval Dream
The old town of Neuchâtel is like stepping into a time machine, but with better coffee. First stop: the Neuchâtel Castle. This 12th-century fortress isn’t just for show; it’s still used as the seat of the cantonal government. Just imagine signing documents where knights once plotted their next siege. Once, while exploring the castle grounds, I found myself lost in thought about medieval battles and almost tripped over a modern-day politician rushing to a meeting. Next, hit up the Collegiate Church, an architectural marvel that’s been watching over the town since the 12th century. Don’t miss the cenotaph with its 15 statues from 1372. It’s like Instagram, but medieval.
Climb up the prison tower for a view that will make your Instagram followers green with envy. Last time I was there, a sudden gust of wind nearly blew my hat off, but the stunning panorama was worth the near mishap. The tower offers a splendid model of Neuchâtel in the 15th and 18th centuries, because nothing says “fun” like miniature historical replicas. Imagine the painstaking detail, like someone decided to build a 3D puzzle of the past.
Museums and Culture: Not Just for the Nerds
For those who think museums are just dusty old places, Neuchâtel’s museums will make you think again. The Musée d’Art et d’Histoire is home to some of the quirkiest 18th-century clockwork figurines you’ll ever see. It’s like a steampunk convention crashed into a history museum. On one visit, I found myself entranced by a tiny mechanical man playing the flute—so lifelike I almost expected him to start a conversation.
Then there’s Marin and the Papiliorama, where you can walk among thousands of butterflies. It’s like stepping into a Disney movie, minus the talking animals. I once tried to photograph a particularly elusive butterfly, only to realize I was spinning in circles and amusing the other visitors. And for the outdoor enthusiasts, the nearby walking trails and boat trips on Lake Neuchâtel are just the ticket. There’s nothing like a peaceful boat ride, where you can pretend you’re an explorer discovering new lands.
Industry and Academia: The Serious Stuff
Neuchâtel isn’t all about fun and games. It’s also a hub for watchmaking and high-end education. The city’s reputation for precision extends to its exclusive private schools where the elite send their progeny to master French and other fine arts. It’s where future CEOs and world leaders learn to conjugate verbs and sip wine. One school tour had me reminiscing about my school days, minus the opulent surroundings and the overwhelming urge to behave impeccably.
Culinary Delights: Because You Gotta Eat
No travel guide would be complete without a mention of food, right? Neuchâtel’s culinary scene is as rich and varied as its history. Here are the top five restaurants you absolutely must try:
Le Restaurant du Port: Known for its stunning lake views and seafood dishes that make you question why you’d ever eat anywhere else. Once, I found myself so absorbed in the scenery that I almost forgot about my meal—almost.
Brasserie Le Cardinal: Perfect for a cozy meal with hearty Swiss dishes and a beer selection that will make you forget about that one time you tried homebrewing. The first time I tried their fondue, I nearly burned my tongue in my eagerness—totally worth it.
Auberge du Prévoux: Nestled in a quaint village, this place serves up traditional Swiss cuisine with a modern twist. I once spent an evening here trying to decipher the secret ingredients in their signature dish, only to give up and simply savor every bite.
Restaurant Les Bains des Dames: If you like your food with a side of history, this is the spot. Located in a former bathhouse, it offers a unique dining experience. I couldn’t help but imagine the bathhouse’s former patrons enjoying a soak as I enjoyed my meal.
Le Bocca: For those who crave fine dining, Le Bocca’s innovative dishes and elegant ambiance will make you feel like royalty. One evening here, and you’ll be convinced you’ve stumbled into a gourmet paradise. Just remember to save room for dessert—you won’t regret it.
When in Neuchâtel, don’t miss out on local specialties like Neuchâtel sausage, lake fish, and the region’s famous absinthe. Yes, the Green Fairy herself hails from around here. My first sip of local absinthe left me with a delightful, albeit slightly dizzying, memory.
Conclusion
So, there you have it. Neuchâtel, a place where history meets modernity, where every street has a story, and every meal is a masterpiece. Whether you’re here for the views, the food, or just to say you’ve been, Neuchâtel will leave you with memories as rich as its history. Now go, explore, and don’t forget to send a postcard (or at least an Instagram story). And if you find yourself staying longer than planned, just blame it on Neuchâtel’s enchanting charm.
My Work in Neuchâtel
I would like to talk a little bit about my work in Neuchâtel. Not wanting to repeat the same mistake as the previous season, I sat down early to secure a job somewhere in Switzerland. I was afraid that going back to Germany would result in the army catching me, which was something I definitely did not want to participate in. The joke about our great armed forces was brutal. The older generations of Germans called them a bunch of undisciplined losers who could not march straight. They believed that if there were a war, they could not even find their way to the Polish border, let alone defeat the Red Army and its allies. The German Air Force dropped their newly acquired fighter jets at an alarming rate. So, as far as I was concerned, Switzerland was just fine.
Being in the hotel industry, a second or third language was preferable. As a chef, I thought I needed to learn French, so my research concluded, and I set out for Neuchâtel in the French-speaking part of Switzerland. The region of Neuchâtel spoke near-perfect French, I was told. I found a job in an excellent restaurant by the name of Saint-Honoré. It was small and had two distinctive dining rooms. Upstairs, we served bistro food, and in the cellar room, we offered high-end dining. The owner was a nice enough guy, but he was under constant stress, probably because the restaurant had to carry itself on its own merit. Unlike many restaurants connected to hotels, particularly luxury hotels, which carry the restaurant’s expenses, Saint-Honoré did not have this luxury.
Many times I was asked, “What is a bistro?” The best explanation I found was in Larousse Gastronomique. It goes: A bistro is a small restaurant or bar, also known as a bistrot. The origin of this familiar word is obscure. It first appeared in the French language in 1884 and perhaps comes from the Russian word “bystro,” which means “quick.” The Cossacks used it to get quick service in a bar during the Russian occupation of Paris in 1815. There also appears to be a relationship with the word “bistouille,” which in the dialects of Western France describes a cowherd, and by extension, a jolly fellow—an apt description of an innkeeper. The most likely origin is that it is an abbreviation of the word “bistouille.” Modern French bistros are modest in appearance and frequently offer local dishes, cold meats, and cheeses with wine.
When I arrived in Neuchâtel, it was the beginning of October, and the wine harvest around the city was in full swing. The area produced some great wines, but like in other small wine regions all over Europe, most of the wine produced stayed local. Our restaurant carried a fine selection of locally produced wines and wines from other regions of Switzerland. I think that most wines produced in Switzerland stay in Switzerland.
My position in the restaurant was at the entremetier position. In the new kitchen, the entremetier was responsible for a range of hot vegetable dishes, other vegetables, pastries, herb omelets, different styles of poached eggs, pastas, and other noodle dishes, rice dishes, and soups, particularly vegetable soups. It was a busy restaurant, and the entremetier station is usually one of the busiest. Many times I spent the afternoon preparing for the evening meal. On my day off, I attended French classes, so there was little time to party. The crew went out together a few times a week, but nothing like in Interlaken. Most of the crew spoke German, so practicing my French, which I learned during my classes, was not to my advantage. But after a year, I was able to master small conversations. Maybe my school teacher was right when she told me, “How do you want to learn another language? You can’t even master your German.”
During my time in Neuchâtel, I had little time to visit the surroundings. For about a month, I helped out a French chef, a friend of the chef, in his bistro in a small village outside Neuchâtel on my days off. The owner was a pervert and homosexual, and after two days of constant harassment—he looked me up and down like I was a piece of meat—I told him I wouldn’t be back. The one thing I learned there was how to cook tripe, and until today, I don’t understand why people like tripe. Just the smell of it makes my stomach turn. But the Swiss people seemed to be very nice, and my French was actually quite good after I left.
Since I went to Canada after Neuchâtel, I thought I should have no problem with French. But I had a rude awakening when I arrived in Montreal. I couldn’t understand a word of French there. Supposedly, somebody told me it’s a very old French dialect. So, my learning of French was a disaster. Anyway, I will tell you a little bit about Zurich before I go away.
